picture perfect

what i love about the food blogosphere are the inspired recipes and their requisite pretty pictures. though food photography is sometimes derivative – i’m guilty of “ooh, let me get in on this trend of moody photos” too – there’s a craft behind it, deliberate artistry in both the food making and the presentation to create a feast for the mouth and the eyes, and that is inspiring to me. i like to think of generations of cooks who, some more willingly than others, learned baking at their mothers’ knees, or pored over detailed cookbooks, treating the rituals of cooking with a mix of playfulness and sacredness, finding it meaningful to preside over the very traditionally domestic space of the kitchen, to evoke a sense of home wherever they are, through homecooking. the making of food and the documentating of a slow, old-fashioned art, and the creation of traditions: these are all magical to me.

but i know it is precisely the art, the photogenic dishes, the demands that we cook every day (a demand i place on myself but do not extend to my friends, because it pertains to my personal lifestyle choices) that is intimidating. more often than not, images are about making things desirable. with food, though not with other life matters (see facebook, see instagram) i am immune to this envy-inducing medium. i am the only person i know who voraciously reads food blogs: for someone without an underlying interest in cooking-as-craft what is enchanting to me must make homecooking seem even more inaccessible.

THAT said, i am put off by the unanimous and relentless holiday zeal of the food industry. the blogs are is all “it’s my favourite time of the year,” when surely we all know that life doesn’t look as picture perfect as that and plenty of families are dysfunctional and family gatherings painful, and thanksgiving itself is tied up with genocide. so, on the one hand i want to be happy for you that you’re grateful for your husband and your dog and the free-range turducken you bought from whole foods, but on the other hand i have to wonder: are food bloggers so mired in the industry of image-making that they are largely uncritical, or willfully oblivious, only looking to the saccharine and not the darkness?

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a rabbit!
aka Braised Rabbit with Caramelized Fennel & Lemon Butter Gnocchi

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i had a bunny obsession when i was little. my notebooks were plastered with bunny stickers, my shelves stuffed with stuffed (plush) rabbits, and my favourite book in the world was a step-by-step how-to-draw-bunnies in 100 different cute poses. when an aunty gave me a chocolate rabbit for easter, i kept it in the fridge and gloated at it every day, unwilling to massacre the poor thing by bashing its chocolate head and devouring its shattered shell. (it went stale, old, and unedible, as is the way of fridge chocolate.) but now that i’ve grown up, i’ve developed a huge interest, almost a macabre glee, in eating bunny.

maybe it started with the hunger games. katniss and gale silently stalking rabbits and squirrels in the woods outside district 12, imbue wild game with this off-grid glamour. i can’t look out the window without sighting a rabbit or two snacking in our home-grown garden, so they’re ubiquitous, but intriguingly non-mainstream as food. better yet, rabbits are a promising healthy and “sustainable” food source: they can subsist on a grain-free diet, are typically hormone-free thanks to having evaded the factory farm fate of the chicken, and can be kept in urban homesteads (thanks to also having evaded typical city rules for keeping livestock.) i secretly daydream of keeping a hutch or two; i’ve heard they’re a good source of income. can you tell i’m super excited?

i made this rabbit in the spring. it’s full of delicate spring flavours: lemon, mushroom, fennel, cinammon.

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milk-braised whole rabbit

rub the rabbit in lemon zest, sea salt, black pepper, smoked paprika, and the tiniest drop of wasabi or horseradish mustard. let sit in a white wine/sherry vinegar bath with diced onions, carrots, bay leaves and a cinammon stick.

the following day:
reserve marinade lightly fry the rabbit on each side until browned sautee sliced onions, fennel and rosemary in butter until translucent and fragrant add marinade and reduce by half add rabbit and milk bring milk to a boil, then to a simmer bake at 350F for 1 hour, rotating every 30 minutes in the last 15 minutes, add a medley sauteed medly of mushrooms (i used oyster, shitake and button)

lemon butter ricotta gnocchi

ricotta gnocchi
(barely adapted from Zuni Cafe)

1 pound fresh ricotta, thoroughly drained and pressed with spatula
7 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon melted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour + more for rolling
2 large eggs
salt

in a large bowl, beat the eggs until fluffy
add all ingredients and stir until well-mixed and fluffy
take a small ball, and gently roll out onto floured surface. i like to roll out a long tube, then slice into small 1" pieces.
repeat
heat a vat of boiling water. add gnocchi, boil until floating.

lemon butter
(barely adapted from lovethycarrot)

10 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
zest of 1 lemons
juice of 2 lemons
½ cup chopped pistachio (I used hazelnut)
salt
pepper
rosemary
sage

Heat butter, and sautee shallow, garlic, rosemary and sage until the shallot is translucent and spices are fragrant.
Add lemon juice and zest, cook briefly, then turn off heat.
Add salt, pepper, and toss in ricotta gnocchi.
Garnish with crushed nuts.

caramelized fennel


adapted from ottolenghi’s plenty

slice fennel bulb lengthwise
roast fennel slices in olive oil and butter
toss in garlic and brown sugar, salt and peppper
return to oven and gently caramelize at low heat

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$20 groceries in NYC: What We Ate
part ii

$20 groceries in NYC: What We Ate - part i
Grocery Shopping in NYC tips

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THE BREAKDOWN
VEGGIESMEATDAIRYGRAIN OTHERS
Kohlrabi
$1 @Union Square Greenmarket
Pork Butt
$3.49 @Sunrise Mart
Eggs
$2.49 @Trader Joe’s
Rice
$1.49 @Fine Fare
Garlic
$0.99 @Hong Kong Supermarket
Black Turnip
$1.25 @Union Square Greenmarket
Noodles
$2.99 @Hong Kong Supermarket
Soy Sauce
$2.49 @Sunrise Mart
Organic Carrots
$0.88 @Trader Joe’s
Vinegar
$0.69 @Gristedes
Button Mushrooms
$1.79 @Hong Kong Supermarket
Snow Peas
$2.49/bag @Hong Kong Supermarket
Spring Onions
$0.50 @Misc. Chinatown Stall
TOTAL: $7.91TOTAL: $3.49TOTAL: $2.49TOTAL: $2.99TOTAL: $4.17
GRAND TOTAL: $21.05

When it comes to quick weeknight meals and budget cooking, I find it easiest to go asian. Maybe it’s mere muscle memory, that I can whip up any noodle-y or rice dish with whatever’s on hand. Or maybe it’s that an array of lightly cooked vegetables and a rice or noodle base makes for a filling meal that’s light on ingredients. Fancy, pricey ingredients are unnecessary when basic grocery store staples and days-old-fridge vegetables get lightly sautéed into deliciousness. This is my #lazymeal

WHAT WE ATE

several nights in a row with slight variations

Pan-Fried Noodles with whatever vegetables you have on hand. I like to add a fried egg. A simple sauce can be made with soy sauce, sugar and vinegar, no fancy oils necessary.

Fresh Green Noodle Salad finely dice peas, garlic, and spring onions, and lightly pan fry. toss with cooked noodles and add oil, salt, and pepper to taste

A Typical Cantonese Dinner: Steamed Egg Custard, Snow-Pea Stir Fry with a “dry-stir-fry” technique, Root Veggies (Carrot, Kohlrabi & Turnip) Stir Fry with a “moist-stir-fry” technique, sauce of diluted soy sauce, paprika, salt and sugar and steamed rice with (leftover) black beans.

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$20 groceries in NYC: What We Ate
part i

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THE BREAKDOWN

Remember this chart? We put it to good use on the grocery circuit.

VEGGIESFISHDAIRYGRAIN OTHERS
Butternut Squash
$1.25 @Union Square Greenmarket
Fish Fillet
$1.52 @Sunrise Mart
Eggs
$2.49 @Trader Joe’s
Buckwheat Noodles
$1.49 @Sunrise Mart
Spice Mix
$1.99 @Trader Joe’s
Cabbage
$2 @Union Square Greenmarket
Butter
$2.99 @Trader Joe’s
Rice
$1.49 @Fine Fare
Rutabaga
$1 @Union Square Greenmarket
Rye Bread:
$2.79 @Moishe’s Bakery
Mushrooms
$1.79 @Hong Kong Supermarket
Black Beans
$0.88 @Fairways
TOTAL: $6.04TOTAL: $1.52TOTAL: $5.48TOTAL: $6.65TOTAL: $1.99
GRAND TOTAL: $21.68
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WHAT WE MADE

Butternut Squash Bread Pudding
Butternut Squash Tacos (with homemade tortillas)
Fish Tacos with Rice, Black Beans & Braised Cabbage (with homemade tortillas)
Rutabaga & Squash Soup
Buckwheat Noodles with Cabbage & Mushroom Slaw
Polish Hunter’s Stew (Cabbage)
Butternut Squash Pie with “Pumpkin” Seed Crust
Black Bean Buckwheat Noodles

Say what, the stew needs onions and mushrooms, and the pudding needs cheese? And bacon? Who has money for bacon? Naw, just omit the ingredients you don’t have, substitute some great spices, and it’ll taste just fine. Unless you’re talking about salt. You have salt in your kitchen, right? And cloves of garlic? And black pepper? Good. No? Head over to Trader Joe’s and deduct it from next week’s budget. Oh, and for goodness sake, if the recipe says it serves four, we’re dividing the ingredients by four, ‘cause we’re cooking for one. Gotcha?

How to spend $20/week on groceries in Manhattan

because you can do so much better

You know how, when your pretty, slightly oblivious friend starts sleeping with that creepy guy who won’t leave her alone, you’re secretly rolling your eyes and going “…but she can do SO much better!”? Okay, so I’ve never done online dating, but I bet it sort of works like this: if you live in a place where men, or women, are scarce, you take whatever you can get, but, if you’re in, say, NYC, there are plenty of fish in the sea. Budget grocery shopping in Manhattan is a lot like looking for love: there are tons of options, so set your standards, shop around in the most probable locations, and DON’T SETTLE. That bodega that’s trying to sell you a tomato for $5? give them the middle finger Yeah, whatever, keep walking. You can do SO much better.

Here’s how I structure my grocery budget:

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Here’s what that translates to in real groceries:

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Here are my commandments for budget grocery shopping in Manhattan. Lessons learned from paying my dues as a starving intern and then feeding a starving artist.

  1. Know the market rate. How much should carrots really cost in this city? (Answer: less than a dollar per pound, even organic.*) What about salt? oil? peanut butter? Shop around at a few places and compare prices for the ingredients that are staples in your kitchen, and decide what’s the maximum you’re willing to pay for it. For example, I won’t pay more than a dollar for sea salt, and my ceiling for any kind of jarred condiment (peanut butter, jam) is $3, and let’s pass on the $5/lb celery, shall we?

  2. (Mostly) Every store has bargains, and conversely some things are overpriced even at budget grocery stores. Trader Joe’s is great for basic pantry items (condiments, pasta, dairy) but I find that their meat prices are on par with a meat counter or butcher, and fresh-baked bread can be had for better prices from a bakery. Union Square greenmarket, surprisingly, has stalls with bargain vegetables. Know your stores.

  3. Instead of doing all your shopping at one store (because convenience comes at a cost, see above), plan a grocery crawl. This could be a single route done in one go on the weekend, or detours on your way home, spread out over the week. Soon it will become routine.

  4. Spoil yourself a little. Want to splurge on those organic vegetables? Go for it, there’s room to maneouver in your budget by going budget on other things like grains and condiments. But no, you can’t do fancy truffle oil and quinoa and organic heirloom tomatoes and free-range rabbit and cage-free, flax-fed eggs and fair-trade indie-roasted coffee in the same week on this budget. Sorry. You gotta pick one.

  5. Have a strong ethical stance or dietary preferences? See #4, prioritize your cage-free eggs, and adjust the rest of the budget accordingly.

  6. Staples: spread these out over a few weeks. You’d be surprised at how far you can get with olive oil and sea salt this week. The balsamic vinegar can wait.
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Here are my favourite locations for schtuff:

Union Square Market

What to get: in season veggies (around $2/lb), honey ($10 for 2 lbs), bargain fruit (ie. bulk apples, slightly soiled peaches, end-of-the-day produce that they want to get rid of), freeeee samples (can we say yum?)
What breaks the bank: overpriced vegetables (shop around), artisan meat & cheese (though well worth it if you’re looking to splurge, see commandment #4)

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Fairway

What to get: leafy greens for under $3, dried pulses for under $2, eggs for $2.49, cheese for ~ $3, some meat
What breaks the bank: fancy sea salt, above-market-rate fruit, fancy condiments

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Trader Joe’s

What to get: Spices ($1.99, yeah!), Fancy Sugar/Sweeteners (turbinado / cane / agave), Pasta, Dairy ($2.49 eggs, $2.79 milk), Peanut Butter ($2.49)
What breaks the bank: sandwich bread, meat

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Associates, Fine Fare, Hispanic Grocery Stores

What to get: grains(<$2, goya brand), beans<<$2, goya brand), oil(<$3), vinegar (<$1), salt (<$1), sugar (~$1)
What breaks the bank: unappetizing meat, non-bargain veggies, non-bargain cheese

Asian Grocery Stores (Chinatown, Japanese Marts in East Village)

What to get: vegetables, fish, noodles, dried beans, dried grains, soy sauce, rice flour
What breaks the bank: dairy

NEXT POST: What to cook for $20/week in NYC. Happy Grocery Hunting!

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